Top beaches in Vietnam

VIETNAM MIGHT HAVE BEEN LATE TO SOUTHEAST ASIA’S BEACH PARTY, BUT IT WAS WORTH THE WAIT. THE COUNTRY BOASTS MORE THAN 3400KM OF COASTLINE, WITH INFINITE STRETCHES OF POWDERY SAND, HIDDEN COVES, LOVELY LAGOONS, IMPOSSIBLE BOULDER FORMATIONS AND TROPICAL ISLANDS RINGED WITH YET MORE BEACHES. HELP! TOO MANY CHOICES!

Con Dao Island

Image by Emilyvin

The Con Dao Island have been protected from over-exposure by their isolated location off the coast. Enjoy it while it lasts, with their smattering of resort  and an overdose of idyllic beaches, as this is sure to be the next big thing in Vietnamese beaches.

Mui Ne

Image by Mark Broadhead

Set on a seductive swathe of sand, Mui Ne is an absolute charmer with swaying palms and towering dunes. Get pummelled on the beach by a masseur or pummelled by the waves with some water sports – this place blends action and inertia to perfection.

Phu Quoc

Image by Mark Broadhead

Simply the most beautiful island in Vietnam, Phu Quoc is liberally sprinkled with picture-perfect white-sand beaches and cloaked in dense, impenetrable jungle. Long Beach is sophisticated, Ong Lan Beach romantic, and Bai Sao simply irresistible.

Nha Trang

Image by Mark Broadhead

The heavyweight champion of Vietnam, Nha Trang has been knocking out visitors for years. True, the town is brazen and brash, but the beach is bold and beautiful and a gateway to a cluster of quieter islands.

China Beach

Image by @Saigon

OK, so we are using artistic licence with the name, but whether you call it My Khe to the north or Cua Dai to the south, it’s all just one long, luscious stretch of sand. Try surfing off the shores of Danang or just pamper yourself at the resorts near Hoi An.

Doc Let

Image by Cmic Blog

While the rest of the world is sunning itself in Nha Trang, slip up the coast to this little teaser, home to some atmospheric resorts and some squeaky white sand; a place to get away from it all.

Ho Coc

 Vung Tau to Phan Thiet is almost one long beach, but much of it remains mercifully inaccessible to the masses. Sample its potential with a retreat to Ho Coc, a glorious sandbar about midway along this stretch.

Dalat - The Coolest Hill Station in Vietnam

French-Colonial Villas Now House Cafe and Restaurants by John Lander

You awake to crisp, clean highland air and the sound of birds chirping just outside your balcony. The view over Xuan Huong Lake is frosted with clouds of mist, as motorbikes draped with cauliflower speed toward the central market. Downstairs, in your villa hotel, breakfast is being served. A cup of steaming coffee fresh from the hills is slowly dripping from its tiny, individual filter to start your day. Homemade strawberry jam, a local specialty, is on the table to accompany the crusty baguettes rivaling anything baked in Paris. Dalat has many nicknames: "The City of Love", "Le Petit Paris", and "City of Eternal Spring," but for most people it is simply the most pleasant town in Vietnam.

The French built Dalat as their premier hill station, a retreat from steamy Saigon. Two thousand French-colonial villas are picturesquely scattered around the lake and nearby mountains. The last Emperor of Vietnam, Bao Dai, was so enamored of the place that he had no less than three villas built for himself in Dalat. All three of Bao Dai’s villas may be visited, though Binh III is the most accessible. Luckily, many of these villas have been preserved and still serve as summer residences, while others have been converted into cafes and hotels.

The French influence in Dalat is still palpable though with a Vietnamese twist - from the French colonial architecture to the smell of baking croissants. When the Dalat Palace was first built as a hill station in the 1920s, its purpose was as a retreat for the French and their guests to enjoy hunting and the cool mountainous climate. While golf has replaced hunting, the Dalat Palace has been restored to its former grandeur. Just down the street, Café de la Poste, one of the premier French restaurants in town could just as well be in Normandy or Provence except for the low prices.

Dalat has long attracted artists, poets and creative types who have established themselves in local art galleries, cafes and villa hotels. One of the most accessible of these salons is the Stop and Go Café. While its name may conjure up visions of a gas station or a convenience store, it is anything but. The café consists of the downstairs of Mr Duy Viet’s villa and surrounding orchid gardens. Coffee, tea and cakes are served but most visitors come just to chat with Mr Viet in English, French or Vietnamese. Local regulars come to play the guitar, poets compare notes while visitors from around the world come to relax or read Mr Viet’s latest poem while he tends his orchids. Others admire the hundreds of scrolls and paintings hung on the walls of his living room. More than a café, the Stop and Go has hosted visitors from John Kennedy, Jr., to the French, British and Swedish ambassadors, but most patrons are local artists, Mr Viet’s friends and world travelers. As Mr Viet puts it, “in my house, everyone is a friend.” Female guests are treated to flowers gently placed by Mr Viet behind their ear. Everyone else receives a smile and artichoke tea on the house.

More of an outlandish sculpture than a villa, the Hang Nha House is the work-in-progress of Dr. Dang Viet Nga. Called “Crazy House” by locals, the swirl of building/sculptures is part Gaudi with slices of Disney, Steiner and sprayed with hippie whimsy. Soaring above the terrace, a giant concrete banyan tree with twisted roots extends every which way. Giant wire spider webs are suspended from branches. Stairways are made to resemble tunnels and caves. Part sightseeing spot and part hotel, the Hang Nha House captivates you with its menagerie of rooms. Nooks and crannies serve as sitting rooms. The Tiger Room and the Kangaroo Room mean just that –they are decorated with animal sculptures after their namesakes. Clearly, Hang Nha House was designed to remind you of the integration of nature within a living, breathing environment. Though locals may call her architectural wonder “Crazy House”, Dr. Hang Nga prefers to describe her work thus: “With the voice of architecture, I wish to lead men to come back to nature and love it and not make full use of it or destroy it.”

But many visitors come for the pure nature in the surrounding area, rather than architectural facsimiles of it. One of the original attractions of the area was its big game hunting. In Dalat’s heyday of the 1920s tigers, gaurs and elephants wandered around freely. Note the elevated piles on which most villas are built, thus avoiding this wildlife. Xuan Huoang Lake is circled by footpaths, making for an easy hike or bike ride. Lakeside cafes built on stilts right over the lake are noted more for their views than their food. However, these cafes are convenient stops for a rest and a drink if you wish to take the three-kilometer hike around the lake. Set next to Xuan Huong Lake, the Dalat Flower Gardens are continually being refined. Dalat is known all over Vietnam for its variety of fresh flowers and the Dalat Flower Gardens is its showcase with orchids, hydrangeas, fuchsias, ferns and other species tastefully arranged around the spacies gardens. There are also a few resident monkeys famous for throwing things at visitors. Across the road from the Flower Gardens are nurseries with various types of bonsai trees, artfully laid out around the lake.

In the surrounding hills, numerous waterfalls, hilltribe villages and hiking trails dot the area. The waterfalls, especially Pongour Falls, make great spots to trek around the rainforest or picnic with the butterflies. As Dalat is hilly and spread out, motorbikes are the transportation of choice here rather than bicycles. An interesting way to tour the area by motorbike is to hire one of the Easy Riders – a local group of seventy tour guides with large motorbikes. Almost all of them speak fluent English and French and do not operate through travel agencies. One of the older members of the group, Mr Hung explained. “We are very selective on who we invite to become an Easy Rider. We base our choices on safe driving skills as well as fluency in foreign languages. Knowledge about the surrounding area is also a must. It’s not easy to become an Easy Rider and we limit membership to seventy members.” Easy Riders can be found in front of the Blue Water Café on the lake or at the Central Market. Don’t worry about finding them. They’ll find you.

The taste of fresh strawberry jam with artichoke tea, the smells of its cool nights, friendly smiles and cauliflower vendors literally wearing their cauliflower at the market leave the visitor with gentle but strong impressions of Dalat. Unlike other cities or towns memories of Dalat will linger. You cradle your teacup and one of Mr Viet’s impromptu poems comes back to you:

“As a wind orchid
I’m living in bluish mountains
High in the highlands
Covered with clouds and fog…”


………

Sidebar:

Sinh Cafe private “open tour” buses take five hours from Nha Trang or five hours from Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City for $6. www.sinhcafetravel.com

Vietnam Airlines has daily flights to Dalat from Ho Chi Minh City taking 50 minutes. The airport now serving Dalat is one hour from town. www.vietnamairlines.com

Dalat Palace Sofitel, singles from $110 per day. 12 Tran Phu Street, Dalat Vietnam http://www.accorhotels-asia.com/1744 tel 825-444

Cafe de la Poste, across the street from the main post office behind the Sofitel Dalat Palace, French food at reasonable prices, especially the lunch set menu for $7.12 Tran Phu Street, tel 825-444 (operated by the Sofitel)

Stop and Go Cafe, A visit to Dalat would not be complete without having a coffee at the garden villa of the Stop and Go Cafe - a hangout for local and expatriate artists and writers; 2 Ly Tu Trong

Hang Nha House. 3 Huynh Thuc Khang St, tel 822-070

Enjoy your tour in Mui Ne

Mui Ne, meaning “sheltered peninsula”, is an idyllic, laid-back beach town featuring all that you need to help recharge those batteries. Palm trees, white sand beaches, great seafood and a range of hotel options make it a great weekend away. However, Mui Ne isn’t just about lazing by the beach and reading a book, there are also some exciting water based activities, including kite-surfing and windsurfing, that are guaranteed to get your blood pumping. You can also hire a motorbike and cruise off to the photogenic red or white sand dunes, or get your feet wet at the fairy stream, or simply wake up early to take in a beautiful sunrise and watch last night’s catch unloaded on shore. With such a variety of options all within easy access to the town it is easy to see why Mui Ne is such a popular southern destination.

Mui Ne, the beautiful white sand beaches of Vietnam 
Photo by aidanxuyen

When you talk to someone who’s visited Mui Ne you often hear; “it was just so relaxing, with all those great little beach bungalows, stacks of different restaurants, beautiful dunes and white sand beaches.” However you could just as easily hear, “Mui Ne was unreal! We tried our hand at dune sledding, kite-surfing, windsurfing and even snuck in a round of golf. And we partied by bonfires every night on the beach. What a wicked weekend away!” Whichever Mui Ne you experience, you are bound to have a great time.

I liked the contrast between the young boys practising kite surf and the old fisherman in his traditional half-nut boat. They’re all pulling or hanging on ropes…
Photo by mtchm

WHY GO TO MUI NE

Photo by art-ko

Mui Ne is gorgeous and really relaxing. If you make the effort to get there then you will be rewarded with postcard like palm fringed, white sand beaches and a lovely place to watch the world go by. Add to that, the easily accessible attractions around Mui Ne, you will see why the area has slowly turned into the port-of-call for most ex-pats out of Saigon and for backpackers from all over South East Asia seeking a beach break.

WHY NOT GO TO MUI NE

Mui Ne is a little out of the way. With no easy airport access, if you don’t like long bus trips, you’d be better off flying into Nha Trang or heading down to Phu Quoc Island for a beach getaway. Also if you are looking for scuba diving or snorkelling then head elsewhere.

Mui Ne, like many other coastal tourist destinations in Vietnam, has undergone a building and development boom over the last few years. What was once a romantic and quiet local beach town is now almost entirely fronted by big hotels and bungalows and shows very little resemblance to the quiet fishing town that it used to be.

BEST TIME TO GO TO MUI NE

As always on the south coast of Vietnam it is best to visit during the dry season which runs from October/November through to April/May. However, Mui Ne has a unique climate that means it sees very little rain in comparison to nearby Nha Trang,  Hoi An and even Phan Thiet (just 30kms south) thus making it a great choice year round.

WHERE TO STAY IN MUI NE

Unlike many destination  in Vietnam it pays to make a reservation in this little town. There is an abundance of accommodation choices but due to Mui Ne’s popularity and proximity to Saigon it is a popular destination particularly over weekends and national holidays. With over 100 hotels to choose from there are as you would expect a wide variety of options from beautiful romantic resorts right down to little beach side bungalows. The Cham Villas (32 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, (062) 741-234) are my pick as one of the best priced luxury options in town. However, if you are looking for something a little lighter on the wallet then consider checking out Hiep Hoa Resort – Beachside Bungalows (80 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, (062) 847-262.)

WHERE TO EAT / DINE IN MUI NE

Mui Ne, as you would expect, is all about seafood. There are some great restaurants that will cook up the catch of the day right as you watch, including; Guava (53 Nguyen Dinh Chieu) or if you are looking for a more romantic option then consider the restaurant inside the Sailing Club – Sandals (24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu.) An extensive menu and a beautiful setting make Sandals a great choice. A popular local option with plenty of fresh seafood to choose from is Lam Tong (92 Nguyen Dinh Chieu.)

Mui Ne fisherman
Photo by jonasphoto

Mui Ne and Binh Thuan province is also home to the famous dragon fruit. Aptly named, because of its appearance, it is a roadside favorite, and makes a great breakfast snack.

NIGHTLIFE IN MUI NE

Jibes, Pogo and Java are great options for passing the nigh away in town. Jibes is a popular kite-surfing hangout and often has bonfires down on the beach. However trends change, so have a walk along the beach and see where the night will take you!

MY TO DO LIST IN AND AROUND MUI NE

• The red sand dunes – these sand dunes are at the northern end of town. The dunes are incredibly photogenic but because of their proximity to Phan Thiet and Mui Ne, they are incredibly popular as well. They are best visited very early in the morning or late at night to avoid the crowds and intense heat.

Following my friends steps
Photo by Lulugaia

• The white sand dunes – more picturesque but a bit more effort to reach than the Red Sand dunes, their grandeur are however, well worth the journey. Fantastic photo opportunities abound.

Dunes at the ocean:
Photo by alexlichtenberger

• Fairy Springs – Located about halfway along the main road at the back of Mui Ne beach. Head up river to the source of the spring and see how a small little river has carved out a huge niche in the local countryside.

• The early morning fish market – at the northern end of Mui Ne town, this is a must. Aim to get there sometime between 5.30-7am to catch the best of the action. You’ll see hundreds of locals furiously unloading, cleaning and trading all types of fish from boats anchored just off shore. A great 30 minute visit and easy to tie in with a trip to the nearby Red Sand dunes.

• The Po Shanu Cham tower – is located just east of the road linking Mui Ne and Phan Thiet. A vestige of the incredible culture of the Cham people who used to inhabit this area. It is beautifully located on a rise overlooking Phan Thiet city and the Phan Thiet river.

STAY AWAY FROM

If you are going to hire a motorbike be sure to be cautious of all the tourist buses that fly in and out of the town. If you have never been on a bike before this is a great place to learn, but beware. Not long ago a new road was built behind the beach which has alleviated a lot of the traffic problems yet still many cars, buses and bikes continue to drive down the beach road at breakneck speeds!

GETTING THERE

Mui Ne is about 30kms north of Phan Thiet  Just off highway 1a near the Phan Thiet turnoff is a side road to Muong Man which has north-south train connections. Ask about timetables in advance or prepare for a possible lengthy wait!

Most tourists reach Mui Ne on a bus, either a 4 hour journey north of Sai Gon or a 5 hour trip south of Nha Trang.